Friday, August 31, 2007




After my five week absence from Brooklyn, I am starting to get back into my Carroll Gardens groove. The first load of laundry is swishing in the machine as I write this, all the bills have been sorted and (mostly) payed and I even managed to sleep through the night, my body slowly getting on Brooklyn time.
A walk down Smith and Court was the absolute wake-up: I am not in the Auvergne any more...
Now I know that I tend not to see the trash here in New York when I go about my daily life, but when I have been gone and come back, i am always amazed by the overflowing trash cans, by the piles of black bags filled with refuse just dragged to the corner and by all the wrappers and chewing gum littering the sidewalk. I just spent two days walking around Paris, and let me tell you, it was pretty darn clean, with beautiful plantings everywhere and parks that we can only dream of here in this city.
As I was walking on Court with Mr.Pardon Me and Moody Teen son, I was shocked. Is this really my beloved Brooklyn? Do I really live here, did I really choose to raise kids here? I know, I know, I will settle in again. In time, I will even overlook the trash once more, but really, New York is incredibly filthy.

Thursday, August 30, 2007

I found a new favorite song while I was watching a french music channel in the hotel in Paris. There was actually some pretty cool music to be found.








AND SO SEXY. An old fave.



Re-entry is painful. Back in Brooklyn, I am slaloming around the half-emptied suitcases, the piles of dirty laundry and avoiding the sizable heap of mail. At least I have already weeded out the junk mail. I think I am depressed.
Upon our landing at Newark Airport, the custom's agent sent us on our way with a big smile: " Welcome home!" he beamed. His enthusiasm was remarkable, but as we headed to the exit and to the Taxi stand, I mused over this little greeting. Is this here really my home? I know that after five weeks in Europe, my kids certainly were glad to be back "home." I am not so sure about Mr. Pardon Me. I think he could have stayed in Europe without problems.
I mentioned the agent's remark in the cab, on the way to Brooklyn. " Do you really feel at home here?" I asked as we were being shaken in the back seat of the taxi. Without hesitation, College girl said: " I love New York City. I am so glad I am back." With that, she pulled out her cell phone to check out all the messages she got from friends over the last few weeks. It did not take long before she was happily talking away and making plans.
Moody Teen son on the other hand was more thoughtful. " I love America, but I hate New York" was his reply. I am sure he was already agonizing over the first day of school. With two more years of high school ahead of him, he has seen his sister gain an unbelievable amount of freedom away from home, while he is still living with Mom and Dad. I understand him. I was the second child too. I know he needs the freedom that only a life outside a big city offers. He seems happiest when the wind blows through his hair while he maneuvers his scooter around country roads. A young Peter Fonda in "Easy Rider." But he feels a deep attachement to this country.
Yes, I thought to myself, this here is home for my kids. After all, they were born right here in Brooklyn. First generation Americans on my side, third or fourth generation Brooklynites on their father's side.
I looked out at the window and at the road leading into the city. It was grey and dirty, the surface of the roadway was peppered with potholes. In the distance, I saw the New York City skyline, and I knew this was not home for me. Even after 32 years.
Don't get me wrong. I have a great life in this city and I love my house and my friends. I am happy that my children feel a connection to their place of birth, That is as it should be. But it will never be the place that I call home. Home is on a little hill top in the middle of France. And I am starting to count the days till next July, until I can go back.

Saturday, August 25, 2007


My Rose Bushes in my corner of France.
They have lasted through two winters.


A new section of garden that I planted this year.


My Brooklyn garden the way it looked the day I left.

As though it was not difficult enough to leave this place after five weeks, the sun was gloriously shining today. It has not been this nice for a few weeks. With a heavy heart, I am packing everything away and saying good- bye to the neighbors. Oh, how I wish I could stay longer... But as my good friend Marinette told me yesterday, one has to leave in order to have the pleasure of returning.
I have been working on my little garden all this time and the weeds have given way to flowers. I have no illusion though: as soon as I leave this little hill, the weeds will return. Tomorrow, we are packing the car and heading to Paris. We need two days in the Metropolis to prepare ourselves for New York. Frankly I have not thought of Brooklyn for a while. But there is a little garden in Carroll Gardens waiting for me too. Weeds have probably overpowered my flowers there. I know what I will be doing as soon as I arrive...work, work, work to reclaim my patch of green.
The next time I will be writing will be from the other side of the Atlantic. So check back soon.

Saturday, August 18, 2007


Our little farm house in France has lots of reminders of my mother in it. Long ago, she had an affinity for old objects and she started collecting them to fill this house with period objects. Mind you, the original farmers who lived here were land-rich, but dirt poor otherwise. The house would have had few furniture such as a big farm table, long benches to sit around the table, a few beds and lots of tools. No kitchen ( all the meals were prepared in the fire place) and no bathroom. In fact, this house did not have running water in it until the late 70's. The only water came out of a faucet in front of the house. It was supplied by a water source which ran all along our little hill.
My mother loved to go to the Brocantes or flea markets around here and bought up many, many objects that seemed silly to me when I was young. They are all standing here and there in the house. The picture above is of a wash basin and water can which has been standing on a window sill of the house for more than 35 years. Sometimes, when I move it, one of my mother's grandchildren moves it back to its original place with a scolding look on their face. You see, I have been put in charge of this house, but it is more a museum, a place where the entire family feels close to my mother. She put so much of herself into this place. And now that I am an adult and she is gone, I am glad for all the objects she put in it. So the pitcher above stays were it is, though I dared add the lace curtain to the window this year.

Friday, August 17, 2007





Believe it or not, but I used to have a donkey when we lived in France and used this house as a week-end getaway. His name was Baltazar. We found him through our butcher. My father asked him if we could find a donkey for us, so the butcher must have used his connections at the slaughterhouse. So you could say that we saved this donkey from certain death.
He was my week-end companion for many years. During the wee,-he stayed with the Desgeorges, the neighboring farmers down the hill. So far and wide, Baltazar was known as "the Desgeorges'
donkey who belongs to the Germans." Baltazar was one of the things I had to leave behind when I moved to America with my family. I was heartbroken. I never saw him again, but my father assured me that he lived out his life on the estate of a friend of his, happily munching on grass until he died.
Back in the early 70's, Baltazar was the only donkey in these parts of France, though they had been an integral part of the landscape long ago. But then cars came along and the donkeys disappeared. Now there is a real revival and you can see them a little everywhere.
So you can imagine how excited I was to go to the Donkey Festival at St. Etienne -sur-Usson this last week-end. It was one of the highlights of this vacation. I fell in love with the little old couple and their tiny donkeys adorned with lace. Priceless.

Monday, August 13, 2007


This is my favorite new store. If the exchange rate between Euro and Dollar where better, I could do some serious damage in there. It carries those nice French home decorating items that you could only find at Pierre Deux in Manhattan. It is in Ambert, trhe same little town with the incredible farmer's market I wrote about a few days ago.

The View Out Of Our Bedroom Window

The sun is back in the Auvergne. What a relief. Yesterday was a a productive day. I took up painting the shutters and the new windows again. In the afternoon, I declared war on all the pesky weeds that had grown in the last days of rain. Mr. K was busy sorting and splitting wood all afternoon, and my father proceeded to make a hellish fire to burn all the insect infested wood that was taken off from the roof of our little shed. By afternoon, the garden looked pretty spiffy for the first time in years. Progress, a little bit at a time. I guess work would progress quicker if not for the long lunch interruptions, followed by the frequent chats with neighbors as they walk by the house to comment on our work. And then of course, by the time the wine bottle makes its appearance, all work stops. It is hard to imagine that in two weeks, I will be back in Brooklyn, New York. The life I lead here just seems so much saner...

Sunday, August 12, 2007


Condat's Church By Night


A very old picture of Condat's main square. The church is the building all the way to the back on the left.

An old church stands in Condat -lès-Montboissier's main square, its bell tower plainly visible from all corners of this little village. It is in a sad state. Held together with huge blocks of local stone, the structure is slowly falling apart. The Catholic Church long ago abandoned this and all the other tiny community churches here in the Auvergne by not replacing the local priests when those died. So, after centuries of being the heart of the community of Condat, the church stays closed. No more service, no more marriages, a priest is only called for funerals. A sad state of affairs.
I had not been inside in many, many years, so when the mayor invited us to a concert in the church last night, Husband and I jumped at the chance. "Le Syndicat D'Initiative" of Fournol, a neighboring village, had organized a series of baroque chamber music concerts in many of the abandoned churches . So last night, the mayor opened Condat's house of worship with an eight inch cast iron key which weighed at least two pounds.
I was shocked by the church's state of disrepair. The smell of humidity and mildew was intense as we found our place on one of the simple wooden pews. One glance at the ceiling confirmed my immediate fear that we were sitting right underneath big chunks of loose plaster. I am not a religious person, but I was so saddened and shocked that this little treasure of a church had fallen in such disrepair.
The concert last night was given by a trio that had come all the way from Germany. I wondered how a group of first class musicians had gotten an engagement to play in such a god-forsaken place as Condat. The trio consisted of a husband and wife team playing the trumpet and the violin respectively and a harpsichordist. Though the trumpet was a bit of an odd choice for a baroque trio, it filled the little church with beautiful sounds.
I promised you a tale of an old violin as well as of an old church. So here it is.
As a young man, the grandfather of last night's trumpet player saw a violin in a music store in his native town in Germany. He passed the store many times before he had the courage to enter and to ask the shopkeeper the price. When he finally entered the store and asked, the elderly shopkeeper looked at the young man and declared: " My dear young man, you will never be able to buy it. It is a very expensive instrument." More determined than ever, the trumpeter's grandfather saved his money for many, many years and finally had enough to buy the violin. He loved and treasured it.
Then the Great War of 1914 broke out. Afraid that something would happen to his violin, he carefully hid it under the straw stack of his farm loft. Four long years went by. The trumpet player's grandfather came back from the war and immediately took out the violin from its hiding place. It has survived the war unscathed. But when he tried to play it, he realized that his fingers were no longer subtle and agile enough to produce beautiful music on the instrument. So, broken-hearted, he wrapped a rope around its scroll and hung it from the rafters of his bedroom.
When his grand-son seemed to have inherited his musical talent, he was overjoyed. But the grand-son had his own passion. He was only interested in the trumpet. So the violin stayed unplayed, suspended from the grand-father's ceiling until he died.
But sometimes, life is full of little twists and turns. The trumpet-playing grandson fell in love with a violinist. He presented his wife with his ancestor's instrument, but by then, it had not been played for so many years, that its sound was uninspiring and flat. So the trumper-player and the violinist decided to sell the violin. They took it to a dealer of old violins. The expert looked at the instrument for a long, long time. Finally, he said: " I just bought a brand new Mercedes. Would you consider accepting it as a trade for the violin?" The instrument was from the 1700's, the time of Johann Sebastian Bach's life. Needless to say, the couple decided to keep the violin.
That was eight years ago. Since then, the violinist wife has played the instrument many times and having been played again, the instrument has regained its beautiful sound.
It was played in Condat's little church last night. Its sound was magnificent. An old violin rich in history being played in a church of about the same age, equally full of history. It was a magical evening.
So there you have it, my little story of the day. I hope it did not bore you too much.

P.S. The name of the trio was " Ensemble Entrada" the name of the trumpet player was Dominik Arz and that of his wife, Agnieska Sokol-Arz

Thursday, August 9, 2007



My kitchen counter


On this, the fifth day of grey clouds, we went to Ambert, one of the cutest little towns here in the Auvergne. It is mostly known for its ancient Town Hall, the only perfectly round town hall in France. Today was market day in Ambert. If back home I was happy with the new Farmers market in Carroll Gardens, I was delighted anew at the abundance of Ambert's market. This is a real market, with incredibly great tasting produce and milk products. The stalls weave in and out of curvy small streets, framed by thirteenth and fourteenth century houses that lean so precariously that one fears that they will topple, were it not for the fact that they have leaned like this for the last two hundred years.
Over so many years summering in the Auvergne, I have some favorite farm stands. Directly across the church is a cheese vendor who sells the best "Fourme d'Ambert" I ever tasted. Fourme D'Ambert is a specialty of this region. It is a mild, creamy blue cheese. There is even a Musée de La Fourme in Ambert. Imagine a museum dedicated to one type of cheese. Yes! Only in France...
I had a lot of shopping to do today. There will be thirteen around our dinner table tomorrow. One of the guests will be Condat's mayor and his girlfriend. Since Pissis is part of Condat, he is our mayor as well. So, having come up with a menu for tomorrow evening's festivities, I was stopping at one produce stall after another. While I was busy getting all the items on my shopping list, my husband made the acquaintance of a British writer who was selling and signing a book he wrote, entitled:
" A Place In My Country: In search Of A Rural Dream." The writer's name is Ian Walthew. It turns out that he left his job back in England as marketing director of the International Herald Tribune to pursue writing. He bought a house in France two years ago and lives here full time. I am sorry I did not get to meet him, but my husband bought his book. He handed it to me just as I was buying a basket of the most perfect looking strawberries I have ever seen. Opened to the title page, I read Ian's dedication: "To Katia, hope this encourages you to abandon N.Y. City and come to France."
I wish. I think if I could, I would. It certainly would not take much to convince me. But then, what about Brooklyn, my other home?

to find out more about Ian Walthew, go to www.ianwalthew.com

Tuesday, August 7, 2007


Our place by the fire


Our little Place in the Auvergne is the loveliest place when the sun shines. If, however, like today, it rains all day, it becomes a wee bit dreary. The old stone walls absorb the humidity like sponges and it becomes cold in the house. Our guests who arrived full of beans on Friday in 85 degree weather have spent the entire day in front of the fireplace and are getting a bit restless. Not only has it been raining since yesterday morning, fog has settled on the landscape and it is impossible to see past the big entrance gate of the garden. Half of the guests just got into the car to aimlessly drive about just to get out of the house, the other is taking a nap after the obligatory hour long lunch with red wine. Yes, all of this is part of a summer in the Auvergne.
Monsieur Le Plumber finally showed up to take care of the problem with the water heater. He laughed when he saw our guests shivering in the kitchen, doing the dishes yet again. I explained to him that he will forever be the hero of any guest who comes to this old farm house if he hooks up a dishwasher for us next year. " Mais oui, on peut le faire" he declared probably wondering why those crazy German/ Americans make such a fuss about a dishwasher. I am sure his wife does not own one in her house.
He must have sensed the discontentment amongst our guests. As he was leaving, he winked at me and said: " Tell them that they predicted better weather in a few days." With that he got into his little white truck and drove off, leaving us on our rainy hill.

Sunday, August 5, 2007


The most pressing question every morning in our corner of The Auvergne is: how much bread to buy and which kind. I wake up with a start each day, afraid that we are too late and that the baker has sold out. Yes, bread is that important here. And if you could taste it and the cheese which accompanies every meal, you would understand.
For decades, Condat, had no bakery. One had to drive for miles to get bread. So the mayor of Condat and the community, decided to buy a house, install a baker's oven and advertise for a baker. The first two bakers who applied and took on the job left after only a few years. The isolation in this small community was too much. Since two years now however, a young couple has occupied the place and the bread that they bake will make you think you have died and gone to heaven. I know I fantasize about it when I am back in Brooklyn.
During our first few days here, my husband drove down the hill or Moody Teen son took his Moped down to get "le pain." In answer to my question if the baker's wife had recognized them from last year, they informed me that she did not really show signs of recognition and that they could not tell me if she knew who they were. I was surprised because last year we had so many guests stay with us that Husband was constantly running down to get more. I could not understand that she would not remember them. Since their french is very rudimentary and a longer conversation with the villagers is impossible, I went down myself and chit-chatted a bit with the baker's wife. I announced to her that we had returned to our beloved hill. She replied: "Yes, I know. I have already seen your husband and your son." and after a few seconds she added" And I have noticed that you do not have guests this year."
Ah, yes. Bread is this that important. Here in our little corner of France, the baker knows your business by how much bread you buy. Last week, we only needed enough bread for three people. Since Friday, we have four guests, so Husband just went down to get a few loaves. That should make the baker and his wife happy.
( I asked the baker if I could take a picture of his bread. So here it is. Fresh and crusty and to die for)

Thursday, August 2, 2007






There are so many reminders of my mother in this house.
Next to one of the windows, a hollyhock grows tall and spindly. It is one of the only flowers that bloom when we are here in August. I remember when my mother excitedly told me that the seeds from this plant came from Monet's garden in Giverny. During a visit there, she secretly snipped a seed pod off a plant and brought it here to her house. This was about 10 years ago. Ever since, it has been blooming in the poorest dirt one can imagine.
As a matter of fact, flowers seem to grow out of every crevice, every dirt patch, even out of walls. The picture above was taken yesterday morning of a sunflower growing out of the stone wall of our shed. No dirt, no visible means of survival. But here it thrives, in almost 900 meters altitude.
And here I thrive too. I am starting to understand why my mother said that she was the happiest when she was here.

Wednesday, August 1, 2007


Another glorious day in Pissis. The mornings are cold but by mid-morning, I take off my warm flannel jacket and walk around in short sleeves. I am starting to feel relaxed and am getting used to the incredible silence surrounding us. At the moment, the only things I hear are the gurgling of the coffee machine and the dripping of the kitchen faucet. ( I have to remember to put that on the list of things to do for Monsieur Chataing, our plump french plumber.)
This week-end is a big one for our little cluster of houses on the hill. Condat-lès-Montboissier, the slightly bigger village of which we are part is having its yearly Fête Patronale. Every year, on the first Sunday of August, there is a dance with live accordion music, organized by the village party committee. It is always a highlight of our vacation here. Last year, I was whirled around the dance floor by our postman, chatted with our plumber and drank little glasses of rosé for .50 cents.
I also talked to the mayor who scandalized the villagers a few years back by building a pink house for his mistress in the middle of Condat. He survived "le scandale" by winning his bid for re-elected. The only other candidate was nor a native of Condat, but a week-ender from Clermont. And the villagers reasoned that a morally impaired farmer was better than a city dweller. Et oui, never trust these city folks.
The first time I attended the Fête, I was 11 years old. Back then, there was a carousel on the main square and a shooting gallery. There were also some vending machines from which my cousins, sister and I extracted tiny little lighters without our parents knowing about it. One of my cousins almost burned the house down while refilling his lighter from a 5 gallon gas tank. My father was able to put out the fire in time to save the house, but not in time to save my cousin from third degree burns on his arm. Thanks to a faith-healer in the nearest hospital (I kid you not) who blew on my whimpering cousin's arm by speaking in a strange language, the burn healed without any scarring or pain. It was miraculous. But my uncle and aunt were spooked and left the next day with my cousins. The vacation was cut short.
Since then I have attended many of the Fête. Marinette, one of my favorite people here on the hill, who to this day calls me "ma petite Kati," always tells me that the villagers were sure that our house would be sold after my mother's passing. Having seen me return with my little family for the fourth year in a row now, makes them believe that I will keep my word and find my way back to the Auvergne every summer. So rest assured that I will be at the Fête this year.