Sue Perette at 270 Smith Street
Polenta Flies
Field Greens
Pork Shank
DuckPhoto credit: Sara Behunek
Reader Sara Behunek* contacted me a few days ago. She had seen my post on the opening of Sue Perette, a new French restaurant at 270 Smith Street. She was planning on having dinner there and wanted to know if she could write a review of the place for Pardon Me.
My reply was an enthusiastic "Yes".
Here is her wonderful write-up:
Sue Perette, 270 Smith Street, gives Brooklynites one less reason to trek to Manhattan. The restaurant, which opened earlier this month by Parisian couple Benoit and Melanie Rouan, serves up rustic and hearty dishes based on countryside fare that can most aptly be described as French with a heavy American influence. Benoit explains that he and head chef Matthew Knoll, “Americanized” Benoit’s recipes together, the result of which is stomach- and soul-warming food that’s unassuming yet refined. The name Sue Perette stems from the coincidental fact that both Benoit and Melanie’s grandmas are named Suzanne.
My boyfriend Bruce and I went in for dinner at about 8:30 p.m. on Friday. At that time about one-quarter of the tables were full. The following night, each table was sat and I assume that each successive night, at least on the weekends, will be busier than the last.
For appetizers, we ordered the polenta fries, which came with a parsley aioli dipping sauce for $5, and field greens with baked goat cheese and a slice of roasted tomato for $9. The baked goat cheese was enveloped in a brick dough pouch – much like fillo dough – the top of which was precisely fanned, making for a pretty presentation. Although the polenta fries were a tad too salty for my taste, they were a welcome departure from the typical starchy potato and utterly yummy.
We ordered for our main course the Berkshire pork shank (at the prodding of my neighbor who made me promise that either Bruce or I would order it) and the double duck confit. The meat was cooked to perfection: The pork was so tender it literally fell off the bone and the two duck breast medallions were served medium rare -- the way duck is traditionally cooked. The pork came with part of a caramelized apple and chopped cauliflower spiced with cumin. The duck was surrounded by individual brussel sprout leaves, baked just enough that the tips of some of the leaves turned brown (which I loved) and sun-chokes (Jerusalem artichokes).
The portions were undoubtedly more French than American, but I thought they were just right. Bruce practically cleaned his plate -- with my help of course -- and I ate one duck medallion and all of the confit and brussel sprouts. The pork was $19 and the duck, $22. Our bill with two drinks, a Macchiato, two appetizers and two entrees came to $75 or so, putting Sue Perette in the same realm as Buttermilk Channel, Po, Char No. 4 or Frankie’s 457. In the end I was happy to pay that much. For the quality of food and service, the menu is appropriately priced.
Part of what makes the Sue Perette experience so enjoyable is the ambiance. For the redecoration, Benoit and Melanie worked with Hecho Inc., which also did Building on Bond. The space, formerly home to Café Doré, was practically gutted; the brick walls are now exposed and on them are a series of photographs of Coney Island mornings by local photographer Anne Le Mouellic,. Different local artists’ work will be rotated in and out.
In fact, the emphasis on “the neighborhood” goes beyond the décor. The bread is from Stinky Bklyn (which buys from Tom Cat Bakery in Long Island City, so I’ve suggested they check out some other, even more local shops like Mazzola Bakery or Caputo’s Fine Foods). The wine is from Jenny & Francois Selections, of which Jenny is based in Brooklyn, and Jerome Selection, also out of Brooklyn.
Sue Perette is open Monday through Thursday, and Sunday 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 5 p.m. to midnight. It will be open this Sunday, Oct. 4 for brunch and then after that it will be open for brunch both Saturday and Sunday. They also offer a kid’s menu for $10 per dish that includes a pita pepperoni pizza (which is completely delicious even to grown-up taste buds), cheese ravioli and chicken drumsticks, among other items, and is served with a glass of milk or fruit juice as well as a kids-sized dessert. They kid’s items are also served a la carte for $8 apiece.
My thanks to Sara, not only for writing the review, but also for allowing me to post it here.
A transplant from Colorado, Sara has lived in Carroll Gardens for one year. She most often can be seen sifting through clothing racks at the neighborhood's various vintage shops, drinking Guinness at Abilene while doing her laundry or waiting in line at Mazzola for pain chocolate.
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