A Visit To the Aubazine Abbey In Corrèze

First, I must apologize for the long silence. Though it was my intention to post regularly from France, I must admit that it is harder to find time to sit at the computer when there is so much to do, so much to explore. I hope that the photos above of a visit to Aubazine in the Corrèze will make up for the lack of recent posts.

Aubazine is roughly two hours from our house in the hills of the Auvergne. It is the site of a splendid 12th-century Cistercian abbey, which was founded by Etienne de Vielzot (St. Etienne) in 1135.   By the XVIIth century,  the abbey had about 300 members, but by the time of the French Revolution, the number had dwindled and there were only a few monks left.

By the XIX century,  the sisters of the Congregation of the Sacred Heart of Mary ran an orphanage in the monastery attached to the abbey. In February 1895, Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel and her two sisters were brought to the orphanage by their father, upon the death of their mother.  Coco was just 11 years old. The future fashion designer stayed in Aubazine for six years, during which she lead a rather austere life.  Her time in the abbey had a profound impact on her life and on her designs.  It is said that the logo for her company, two interlacing Cs, was inspired by the intricate designs of the abbey's glass window panes, and that the patterns in the stone floors were recreated in her jewelry designs.

Though the abbey is definitely worth a visit, Aubazine itself, the small town that grew around around the Abbey over the centuries, is quite charming as well.

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A Visit To A Beautiful Old House In The Auvergne

Once a year, while I am in France, I get together with my friend Violaine. Violaine and I went to middle school together in Clermont-Ferrand and, together with our classmates Ghislaine and Marie-José, we spent many great times together. After my family moved to the United States, we continued corresponding and finding ways of checking in with each other in the summer.
This year, Violaine invited me to her family's country home here in the Auvergne. The 200 year old house, its garden and adjacent building are simply stunning and reflect the fact that it has belonged to one family for four generations now.  From her grandmother's faded portrait on the mantlepiece, to the faded wallpaper in the salon, to her mother's old rusted bicycle in the vaulted basement, the place exudes charm.
I asked Violaine if she minded if I took a few photos to post on Pardon Me. "Non. I don't mind," she said with a smile.
Merci beaucoup pour ton amitié, Violaine.

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Of Sunflower Fields And Daily Bread

 

The Auvergne may not have fields of lavender like Provence, but the fields of sunflower are perhaps even more spectacular.  The last few days have been absolutely gorgeous here, and the sunflowers are in full bloom.  It is quite a sight, especially under a clear blue sky.
Our life here consist of going to the market, cooking, eating, taking walks and visiting friends.  Sometime soon, we will have to start working on the house, but it is easy to let the day slip by.
The most pressing concern every day seems to be: who will go down to the village to get the bread?  What kind should we get? And how many loaves?
Can you blame us?

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Market Day In Issoire

One of the greatest pleasures of spending time in France is the weekly visit to the market.  One of my favorite is in Issoire, a beautiful little town, whose past goes back to Roman times.
On market day, vendors put up their stalls along the winding roads that lead through the old part of town and display their products.
Though prices in France can sometimes seem astronomical, especially given the unfavorable exchange rate, I always found that food prices are still rather reasonable here. And the quality is simply amazing.  I think the French are just more demanding when it comes to produce and would not hesitate to complain come next market day if their melons or their tomatoes were flavorless.

Our baskets full of sausages, bread and cheese, we headed back to our village on top of the hill and proceeded to have a nice lunch.  Followed by a nice rest.  The neighbor's cat, Caramel, obviously though that was a great idea.

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